Discovering the Charm of Rural England on Two Wheels
Cycling in the UK, I have discovered can be the greatest adventure that offers a unique blend of history, nature, and can require a little resilience. My recent journey through the rolling landscapes of the Cotswolds was a testament to this. Despite the whims of British weather, the experience was as enriching as it was challenging, proving that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only different types of good weather.
The Voyage Begins: Multi-Modal Travel
Starting from Farnborough North, the trip to the Cotswolds included a multi-train connection to Kemble via Reading and Swindon, a reminder of the UK’s need for more bike-friendly public transport options. However, the slight inconvenience was quickly overshadowed by the anticipation of cycling through the Cotswolds’ storied villages and verdant hills.
Day one of my cycling tour took me through a lot of quintessential English villages steeped in incredible history. One of the most fascinating places I stopped at was Down Ampney that has the most beautiful church built by the Knights Templar and dates back to 1265. In more recent history this village played a major role in the D-Day operations and the war effort.
The Cotswalds has lots of airfields that were involved in the war effort. Some now disused will other very much active air bases like RAF Fairford. I cycled past Fairford and was treated to an A400M flying right over head.
Kemble to Gloucester: A Tale of Two Surfaces
In Gloucester, the historic docks offered a fascinating backdrop for the beginning of Day Two of my cycling route. The Gloucester and Sharpness Canal was a ribbon of tranquillity with a perfectly paved path that unravelled the countryside before me. As I ventured further, the smooth surface gave way to a more rugged dirt track, adding a touch of the unpredictable to my journey.
Caffe Corretto: A Welcoming Respite
In Gloucester Docks, Caffe Corretto stood out as a haven for a weary cyclist. A steaming cup of coffee and a delicious treat were more than just a break; they were a warm embrace from the local community, a must-visit for any traveller on this route.
The Weather: A Cyclist’s Badge of Honour
The weather was undeniably British; grey clouds overhead promised rain and delivered. But as the saying goes, “There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” Decked in waterproof gear, I embraced the elements. The rain only added to the authenticity of my rural exploration, and the encounter with a flooded River Severn was interesting even though I had to double back with soaked feet that soon dried out because experience has taught me to always wear the right gear for intrepid bike rides like this.
Family Time: The Heart of the Cotswolds
After the solitary cycling adventure, the trip shifted to family time. It is possible to do both. We ventured through the Cotswolds, discovering charming towns which we had not visited before, like Tetbury, where every street corner whispered tales of old and every building was a testament to the timelessness of the Cotswolds. A wonderful place well worth a visit.
The Homeward Stretch: Not Just a Fair Weather Cyclist
On the last day, as I pedalled to Kemble Station, the skies cleared, as if in a nod to the journey’s end. The return trip on the train, offered time for reflection on the adventure that was both challenging and rewarding. The girls drove back, and had it not been for me missing my connecting train at Reading, they probably would have only beat me by around half an hour or so. Still, it was nice to stop in Reading for Coffee.
The Takeaway
This trip was more than just a cycling holiday; it was an embrace of spontaneity, a little resilience, and the unparalleled beauty of the English countryside. From the historically rich Gloucester Docks to the flooded plains by the River Severn, each pedal stroke was a story, each mile a memory.
As you watch the accompanying video of my cycling adventure, remember that the Cotswolds await with open arms and unpredictable weather, ready to turn any cyclist into an all-weather rider. So pack your panniers, prep your bike, and set off on a journey that will take you through the heart of rural England — a land where every journey is as much about discovering the landscapes as it is about discovering yourself.
Paul Deach 
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